Green chemistry and bio-based dyes are key to transforming into a sustainable industry

Sustainability is rapidly becoming a decisive factor in the textile industry, influencing competitiveness, compliance, and long-term growth. Across the global supply chain, brands and manufacturers are increasingly seeking alternatives to conventional chemical processes that can reduce environmental impact while maintaining industrial performance.

Positioning itself at the forefront of this transition, Sameet Dye Chem Ltd. focuses on environmentally responsible chemistry for textile processing. The company collaborates with partners such as AMA Herbal Laboratories Pvt Ltd for natural dyes and MYD Group to improve process efficiency and resource optimization.

In this interview, Syed Iqbal Rizvi, Managing Director of Sameet Dye Chem Ltd., discusses the commercial prospects of natural dyes, the challenges of replacing synthetic dyes, and the innovations shaping the future of textile dyeing.

TexSPACE Today: How do you see the commercial viability of natural dyes as a sustainable alternative to synthetic dyes?

Syed Iqbal Rizvi: Bangladesh has already demonstrated a strong commitment to sustainability. The country has more than 260 LEED-certified factories, and over 60 percent of the world’s top 100 LEED-certified factories are located here. The recent achievement of Hams Garments Ltd., which secured a record global score of 108 out of 110 in LEED v4.1, clearly reflects how seriously Bangladesh is embracing sustainable manufacturing.

In that context, natural dyes represent a promising opportunity. Bangladesh is already moving in a sustainable direction, and natural dyes could become an important part of that journey.

However, it is important to understand that natural dyes will not replace conventional synthetic dyes overnight. Transition always takes time. We can understand the scalability only by a single data I am giving you, is the volume of reactive dyes & pigment used in Dyehouses in Bangladesh which is 500-700MT per month! Nevertheless, there are strong indicators that the market is moving in that direction.

Brands and retailers are increasingly willing to pay a 10–15 percent premium, and in some cases even 15–30 percent, for products that incorporate sustainable dyeing solutions such as natural dyes. Beyond price premiums, brands that have launched capsule collections using natural dyes have experienced around 38–40 percent growth in the past three to four years.

Consumer awareness is also rising rapidly. Today, approximately 65–68 percent of consumers actively look for environmentally friendly products, and about 75 percent of them belong to Gen Z and millennial segments.

Considering these trends, the opportunity for natural dyes is significant. Industry projections suggest the global natural dye market could reach around $9.4–9.5 billion by 2030. Bangladesh, with its sustainability leadership in manufacturing, is well positioned to participate majorly in that growth.

TexSPACE Today: What challenges do you face when promoting natural dyes as a replacement for synthetic dyes?

Syed Iqbal Rizvi: One of the primary challenges is mindset. Natural dyes behave differently from synthetic dyes because their chemical nature is fundamentally different.

When factories conduct development trials, many still evaluate natural dyes using the same expectations and processes they use for synthetic dyes. When results differ from those conventional standards, concern arises even though such variations are normal with natural dyes.

Another challenge involves brand and buyer expectations. Natural dyes often produce softer or more muted shades compared to synthetic dyes. In some cases, buyers reject developments because the shades are not as bright as conventional colors. Sometimes concerns also arise around color fastness.

Testing standards are another critical issue. Natural dyes have different chemistry, and therefore conventional testing methods are not always appropriate. International standards for natural dyes are still evolving, with work underway within ISO to develop more suitable frameworks.

For example, detergents containing sodium perborate work well with many synthetic dyes but can cause fading when used with natural dyes. In such cases, milder detergents should be used instead on testing. Similarly for Natural dyes we recomand ISO 105 B02:2014 for CF to Light  fastness test which many buyers don’t want to ccompromise from their existing method. These are technical adjustments that require understanding and collaboration across the value chain. To overcome these challenges, more research and development is essential. Governments, brands, and industry stakeholders should invest in scientific research to improve color fastness and process stability. With stronger R&D support, the adoption of natural dyes will accelerate.

TexSPACE Today: How is Sameet Dye Chem Ltd. integrating green chemistry principles into its product development?

Syed Iqbal Rizvi: Green chemistry has been part of our strategic direction for many years. We recognized early that the textile industry must reduce reliance on hazardous chemicals and move toward safer alternatives.

Our portfolio now includes a range of bio-based and environmentally friendly solutions.

One key initiative is our collaboration with AMA Herbal, which produces dyes derived entirely from natural ingredients such as plants, herbs, and even agricultural waste. This approach aligns strongly with circular economy principles because it converts waste materials into valuable dye resources.

Another important product is bio-indigo, a natural liquid indigo designed to replace petrochemical-based indigo used in denim production. This innovation significantly reduces the chemical footprint associated with indigo dyeing.

We are also developing natural pigments derived from wood waste by Nature Coating, a USA based Innovation companywhich can be used for coating and printing applications. Synthetic Black pigments contain carcinogens (PAHs) and it’s manufacturing results in million tons of CO2 emissions. A report says, 3.3MT of CO2 emits to produce 1MT of Black pigment!

Beyond dyes, we are investing in pro-biotic technologies and biodegradable auxiliaries that can replace conventional chemical processing agents. These solutions allow mills to move toward safer production systems and reduce their carbon credit purchase cost.

Additionally, we recently partnered with MYD Group, Turkey to introduce process optimization technologies that reduce energy consumption, shorten processing time, and minimize environmental impact.

TexSPACE Today: How do you view the growing demand for low-environmental-impact products in Bangladesh’s dye houses?

Syed Iqbal Rizvi: The demand is increasing significantly, particularly because global buyers especially from the US and EU are enforcing stricter regulatory compliance like Digital Product Passport (DPP), ESPR (Eco-Design for Sustanable Products) etc.

However, adopting low-impact chemicals should not be seen merely as a compliance requirement. It is becoming a commercial necessity.

Factories today face rising operational costs, including energy, gas, and electricity. At the same time, global markets are highly competitive. Low-impact chemicals can help factories address both challenges.

Such products not only reduce environmental risks but also improve production efficiency. They help factories meet compliance requirements while optimizing costs and resource utilization.

TexSPACE Today: Water consumption is a major concern in textile dyeing. How do you see the industry addressing this challenge?

Syed Iqbal Rizvi: Water usage is indeed one of the biggest challenges in textile processing, since dyeing traditionally depends heavily on freshwater.

At Sameet Dye Chem Ltd., we are actively exploring solutions to reduce water consumption.

For instance, natural dyes generally require less water than many conventional dyeing processes. In addition, we are promoting natural pigments and coating technologies, including bio-indigo coatings, which can reduce water usage by as much as 98 percent in certain applications.  We have been proven successful over Jeanologia’s e-flow machine with AMA Herbal natural dyes. We are also working on natural pigment-based printing and coating systems that minimize the need for traditional dye baths.

Another important area of focus is developing dyes with higher fixation rates. When dyes bind more effectively with fibers at the molecular level, less dye is washed away during processing. This reduces wastewater generation and makes water reuse easier.

TexSPACE Today: What innovations in dyes and chemicals will be most important for the future of textile processing?

Syed Iqbal Rizvi: One major area of development is waterless or near-waterless dyeing technologies. Reducing water use will be essential for long-term sustainability.

Another promising area is low-temperature or zero-temperature dyeing. For example, AMA Herbal natural dyes can be applied without additional heat during the dyeing process. Technologies that enable dyeing at 50–60°C or even lower can significantly reduce energy consumption. We are now looking for a partner who are having such dyes or research is on going.

There is also growing potential in microbial and agricultural waste-based dyes, which convert natural materials into colorants while supporting circular economy models.

On the chemical side, innovations should focus on reducing the load on effluent treatment plants (ETPs) by introducing auxiliaries that produce fewer hazardous residues.

Ultimately, the industry must transition from conventional chemical systems to bio-based and biodegradable auxiliaries. These solutions will help textile manufacturers meet environmental targets while maintaining productivity provided the decisions makers understand the inevitable changes needed and just not be on comfort zone, sooner the better.