Advancing circularity through design, transparency, and innovation

As the global textile industry accelerates toward circularity and textile-to-textile recycling, the focus is shifting from linear production models to systems that prioritize reuse, resource efficiency, and closed-loop solutions. From designing durable garments to building scalable recycling infrastructure, industry stakeholders are rethinking how value can be extended beyond a single lifecycle.

In this interview, Vincent Djen, Director of Cheng Kung Garments and Partner at China Textile Recycling (CTR), shares his perspective on how manufacturers are adapting to these changes. With decades of experience, he highlights the growing role of transparency, innovation, and collaboration in advancing circular fashion and sustainable textile ecosystems.

TexSPACE Today: How has Cheng Kung Garments integrated sustainability into its sourcing, product development, and manufacturing?

Vincent Djen: Sustainability has become increasingly important for us, especially in a highly competitive garment industry where differentiation is essential. While maintaining strong quality and service standards, we have evolved significantly in our sustainability journey over the past two to three decades.

Initially, like many manufacturers, our focus was on workers’ well-being. Over time, we learned extensively from our brand partners particularly Scandinavian clients who guided us on sustainability priorities and best practices. These learnings have been integrated into our operations, especially in fostering transparent communication with customers. We believe in being open about where and how products are made, even acknowledging challenges within manufacturing processes.

In recent years, sustainability has expanded beyond transparency to include innovation such as circularity, certified materials, and new technologies.

“We have adopted certifications like RDS, RWS, OCS, GRS, along with BSCI for social compliance. Additionally, through China Textile Recycling (CTR), we are actively involved in textile recycling and supplying feedstock for textile-to-textile (T2T) solutions.”

Personally, I find recycling fascinating – taking garments apart and bringing them back into the loop reflects both creativity and responsibility.

TexSPACE Today: As a garment manufacturer collaborating with international brands, how does Cheng Kung Garments contribute to advancing circular fashion practices, particularly through recycled materials and responsible product design?

Vincent Djen: Circularity is widely discussed, but implementing it especially from the design stage is still relatively new for the industry. I contributed to developing circular design guidelines for clothing in China, working alongside stakeholders from brands, material science, and textile engineering.

A key principle in circularity is durability. Regardless of whether a product is fast fashion or luxury, it must offer value and longevity. Even fast fashion items appear in secondhand markets, which shows that style and acceptable quality can extend their lifecycle.

We should prioritize reuse over recycling. Lightly worn garments should be resold or reused, while only heavily worn or damaged items should enter recycling streams. For T2T recycling, most feedstock comes from low-value, heavily used textiles that might otherwise be incinerated.

Design plays a critical role. Products should be durable, maintain quality after multiple washes, and retain aesthetic value. At the same time, designers should consider recyclability such as reducing fabric complexity. Instead of using multiple blended fibers, simplifying compositions (polycotton with spandex) can improve recycling efficiency by reducing contamination.

Ultimately, circular fashion means creating products that deliver value beyond a single lifecycle.

TexSPACE Today: China Textile Recycling focuses on transforming textile waste into valuable resources through textile-to-textile recycling. What are the key technological and logistical challenges in scaling such recycling systems within China’s vast apparel supply chain?

Vincent Djen: T2T recycling has progressed significantly in recent years, especially with advancements in chemical and enzymatic technologies. However, technology alone is not enough scaling requires strong infrastructure.

The biggest challenge lies in feedstock: collecting, sorting, and supplying the right materials at the right price and volume. Without consistent feedstock, recycling systems cannot function effectively. If costs are too high, the final recycled materials become unaffordable for brands and consumers.

At CTR, we have been supplying feedstocks for polyester and nylon recycling. Ensuring consistency in composition and pricing is critical for recyclers to achieve efficient polymerization and maintain competitive costs.

Collaboration across the value chain is essential. Brands, recyclers, and suppliers must work closely, with frequent communication and testing. Different feedstocks react differently during processing, affecting efficiency and cost. Even when something works in the lab, scaling it commercially can be challenging.

It requires continuous experimentation testing various materials, from sportswear to home textiles, with and without coatings. While complex, this iterative process drives learning and innovation across the industry.

TexSPACE Today: With growing interest in take-back programs and extended producer responsibility, how is China Textile Recycling building traceable collection and sorting infrastructure for post-consumer textile waste?

Vincent Djen: Infrastructure is fundamental to recycling systems. We collaborate with our partner company, Feima Yi, which manages large-scale collection. Last year, we collected over 130,000 tons of used clothing.

“Our approach focuses on convenience and traceability. Instead of relying on traditional collection bins, we use an online model where garments are collected directly from consumers’ doorsteps. This improves participation by making the process easier.”

We also provide incentives, such as reward points that can be exchanged for small gifts, encouraging consumers to contribute their used garments. Importantly, this system ensures traceability we know where materials come from, which helps us identify suitable feedstocks for recycling processes.

By combining accessibility, incentives, and traceability, we are building a more efficient and reliable collection ecosystem.

TexSPACE Today: What’s the role of traceability in a recycling system?

Vincent Djen: Traceability is becoming increasingly critical. Brands want clear evidence that recycled materials truly originate from post-consumer textile waste. While certifications like GRS are important, many brands now seek additional verification.

This includes exploring tracer technologies or testing methods to confirm material origins. Some brands also want visibility into the recycling process itself, for example, observing how textile waste is shredded, processed into granules or powder, and then converted into new materials.

This demand reflects a broader shift toward transparency and accountability. Traceability not only builds trust but also strengthens the credibility of recycled products in the market.

TexSPACE Today: How can China help the development of Bangladesh’s textile recycling industry, perhaps through technology transfer, investment, or knowledge sharing?

Vincent Djen: There is significant potential for collaboration between China and Bangladesh in textile recycling. Bangladesh has a large population and a strong garment manufacturing base, which naturally generates substantial textile waste.

This creates opportunities for joint ventures, technology transfer, and knowledge sharing. Establishing recycling systems within Bangladesh would make sense, as materials could be processed closer to where they are generated and manufactured.

“China has experience and technological capabilities in recycling, but countries like Bangladesh and Vietnam will also play increasingly important roles. By working together at the company and industry levels, we can accelerate the development of a more circular and sustainable textile ecosystem.”