France tightens oversight of textile waste system as Refashion faces €170,000 fine
France is stepping up control over its Extended Producer Responsibility system for textiles, known locally as SCRAP. The move follows a €170,000 fine imposed on Refashion for failing to meet its legal duty to collect textile waste free of charge from collection operators.
The penalty was confirmed by the French Ministry of Ecological Transition. Authorities found that collection gaps were recorded in both 2024 and 2025, pointing to non-compliance with EPR obligations.
The case was handled by the General Directorate for Risk Prevention (DGPR). Its review concluded that weak collection performance led to piles of textile waste accumulating in public spaces. Local authorities and social economy organisations were also left to deal with extra costs linked to storage and treatment.
Officials noted that the situation created disruption in public areas and placed financial pressure on organisations working in waste management and social support.
France’s textile waste system has been under strain for more than a year. Social organisations such as Emmaüs and Le Relais say collection and sorting capacities are stretched beyond limits. According to Emmaüs, free collection coverage is still limited across the country, and in many areas the system does not match on-the-ground realities, leading to delays and stockpiling.
The pressure is linked to rising volumes. In 2024, close to 900,000 tons of clothing, footwear, and household textiles entered the French market. At the same time, traditional export routes are becoming harder to use. Overseas markets, especially in parts of Africa, are now saturated with both new and second-hand garments, many arriving in large volumes from Asian suppliers.
At the same time, online resale platforms are changing how used clothing moves through the system, reducing the share handled by traditional collectors.
In response, French authorities are tightening control over Refashion. Measures include closer financial monitoring, limits on cash flow, regular audits, and new requirements around performance, communication, and research spending. The system in question manages a budget of around €1.2 billion for the 2023–2028 period.
The focus is now shifting toward how collection systems can match the growing volume of textile waste, while ensuring that legal responsibilities under EPR rules are actually met on the ground.
