NIL Textile: scaling circularity with a holistic approach

NIL Textile, based in the Czech Republic, is redefining the textile industry’s path to sustainability by embedding circularity directly into the heart of its production process. Unlike many companies that simply add circular practices on top of existing systems, NIL Textile has created an integrated, fully vertical platform designed to make circularity a seamless part of every step, from fabric development to recycling.

The company operates a one-stop facility where every process is handled in-house. This includes the development of circular fabrics, knitting, cutting, sewing, and even value-add decoration and packaging. Everything is carefully coordinated under one roof and linked to a managed network for take-back, sorting, and recycling.

“We control everything—from fabric creation to final garment touches,” says Hana Fořtová, commercial director at NIL Textile. “This in-house model ensures complete control over the entire process.”

NIL Textile’s journey began with a simple yet ambitious goal: prove the circular model works. The company introduced 100% polylactic-acid (PLA) T-shirts and set up about 20 collection points across the Czech Republic to invite customers to return used garments. Over time, this initiative expanded, with new collection points in the UK and beyond.

The pilot project confirmed both consumer participation and the logistics model, laying the foundation for a more complex, multi-material recycling system. NIL Textile now operates across various fabric streams, including cotton (NILCOTT), PLA (NILPLA), nylon (CIRPAD), and polyester (NILPET). Garments are sorted and routed to mechanical or molecular recyclers across Europe based on their composition, ensuring that only materials suitable for recycling are processed.

An essential aspect of NIL Textile’s model is “design-for-recycling.” The company works closely with its partners to ensure that every material used meets specific requirements for recyclability. Detailed guidelines are written for fiber blends, dye types, finishes, and trims to ensure downstream recyclers will accept the returned materials.

This approach helps brands, who often face challenges negotiating recycling agreements on their own, access large-scale recycling volumes. “Negotiating with recyclers can be tough for individual brands, but our established network and customer base allow us to reach the volumes needed for effective recycling,” explains Fořtová.

The company’s sourcing practices are equally as strategic. NIL Textile’s European supply chain ensures traceability and sustainability at every stage. Organic cotton is grown and spun in Greece, while recycled cotton is sourced from Spain and blended with organic cotton for quality. Circular nylon feedstock is obtained from France, with the fabrics produced in-house.

Despite phasing out recycled polyester due to microplastics concerns, cotton remains the bulk of NIL Textile’s sales. The company has also developed a dual-track model for cost-effective scale. While European production focuses on maintaining circular standards, NIL Textile also partners with Asian manufacturers, particularly in Bangladesh, to offer lower-priced options for larger markets.

“We’ve found that in Asia, we can offer the same circular framework at much lower prices,” says Fořtová. “This allows us to compete globally and meet the growing demand for circular products from bigger players.”

This model of combining European proximity production with an Asian manufacturing pathway enables NIL Textile to scale its operations while maintaining deep circular governance. It also speaks to evolving regulations and consumer demands for transparency and sustainability.

NIL Textile’s client base now spans over 350 brands across Europe. The company’s approach has attracted increasing interest from larger players in the industry, driven by tightening regulations and the push for greater transparency in supply chains.

CEO Dr. Mikuláš Hurta explains that NIL Textile’s vision is to serve as both a partner to brands and a research and development engine for textile science. “Our goal is to provide locally produced, fully circular materials that can significantly reduce carbon and water footprints. At the same time, we aim to make European-made circular apparel cost-competitive on a global scale.”

NIL Textile offers three core services to meet different brand needs. The first service provides circular fabrics for brands that need sustainable materials. The second offers made-to-order collections, either fully customized or from a predefined pattern library, tailored for smaller labels needing speed and simplicity. The third service, “circular sourcing,” manages the entire supply chain for more complex assortments, ensuring compliance and facilitating returns.

With its holistic approach, NIL Textile is proving that circularity can be scaled. Brands are increasingly looking for partners who can make sustainability work at every stage of the process, from raw materials to final product and back through recycling. As Fořtová puts it, “Our job is to ensure that circularity works seamlessly, at the mill, on the sewing line, and when the garments come home for recycling.”