Potassium permanganate added to ZDHC watchlist as industry faces pressure to move away from hazardous denim finishing
Potassium permanganate, long used to create worn and vintage looks in denim, has been added to the Chemical Watchlist of the ZDHC Foundation. The move signals rising concern about the continued use of one of the most hazardous substances still present in denim finishing.
For Spain-based technology provider Jeanologia, the decision reflects a warning it has voiced for more than a decade. The company has advocated replacing potassium permanganate (PP) spraying with cleaner technologies since 2015, when it introduced laser-based systems along with its Light Bright and G2 Ozone solutions.
PP spray is typically applied by hand to achieve localized fading effects. The process exposes workers to airborne chemical particles and creates safety risks in laundries and finishing facilities. Despite growing awareness and the availability of alternatives, the method is still used in parts of the global denim supply chain, affecting large numbers of workers.
Jeanologia says its laser technology removed the need for PP spray by offering a digital way to design and reproduce vintage effects. The system allows manufacturers to control finishes with precision while reducing chemical handling on the factory floor. When combined with ozone-based washing, the process also cuts water use and improves consistency in production.
The company’s Environmental Impact Measuring (EIM) platform continues to flag potassium permanganate as a high-risk step. Its Innovations and Challenges in Denim Finishing 2024 report identifies the chemical as one of the remaining barriers to safer production and points to laser finishing as a lower-impact option already available at scale.
Carmen Silla, global marketing director at Jeanologia, said the industry no longer lacks the tools to eliminate PP. The challenge now lies in adoption. She stressed that the discussion is about protecting workers and updating manufacturing practices rather than simply meeting compliance targets.
Over the last ten years, the company has focused on replacing processes such as sandblasting, stonewashing, manual scraping, and PP spraying with technologies designed to reduce exposure to hazardous materials. Its laser and ozone systems are now used by manufacturers in multiple regions, helping brands lower chemical use and improve workplace conditions.
As ESG expectations, traceability demands, and chemical management standards become stricter, early investment in safer finishing methods is increasingly tied to business competitiveness. Jeanologia is calling on brands, laundries, and manufacturers to accelerate the shift toward processes that remove hazardous chemicals from denim production altogether.
The addition of potassium permanganate to the ZDHC watchlist signals that change is no longer optional. The industry now faces a clear choice between maintaining legacy methods or moving toward safer, digitally controlled alternatives that are already in use.
