The hidden costs of Ultra-Fast Fashion and its impact on Europe
What happens when Chinese ultra-fast fashion companies bring a lot of very cheap, low-quality clothes into Europe? At first glance, ultra-fast fashion platforms like SHEIN and Temu offer an irresistible deal: endless choices, unbeatable prices, and lightning-fast delivery. The appeal is clear — but hidden beneath the glossy apps and viral social media ads lies a growing threat that’s silently dismantling Europe’s textile industry and circular economy.
Breaking the Rules
These ultra-fast fashion giants are reshaping consumer habits in ways that seem harmless but have far-reaching consequences. They’re flooding the European market with thousands of new items daily. While they market their operations as “on-demand” to limit waste, the reality is far from green. These platforms create an environment of extreme overconsumption. Consumers, drawn by cheap, disposable clothing, contribute to an overwhelming flood of waste that the European recycling industry is ill-equipped to handle.
The scale of the problem is staggering. In 2023, SHEIN reported a 45% increase in its greenhouse gas emissions, while together, SHEIN and Temu ship the equivalent of 88 Boeing 777 cargo freighters daily, adding to aviation emissions. Additionally, many of these parcels enter Europe under a €150 duty exemption, bypassing critical customs checks and raising concerns about safety, tax avoidance, and regulatory compliance.
Customs authorities are struggling to keep up. The overwhelming volume of small shipments makes it nearly impossible to properly inspect each one. As a result, many products violating EU standards slip through the cracks. For instance, Greenpeace reported dangerous levels of chemicals in SHEIN products in 2022, while Temu’s children’s clothing was found to contain toxic substances at 622 times the legal limit.
Circular Economy Under Siege
While European textile producers, retailers, and recyclers are bound by stringent environmental and safety standards, platforms like SHEIN and Temu often take advantage of regulatory gaps. This has already led to the collapse of several well-known brands in Europe, such as Camaïeu, Pimkie, and Naf Naf. Even global players like H&M are feeling the strain and have taken legal action against SHEIN for copyright infringement.
This onslaught of low-cost, low-quality imports is putting enormous pressure on Europe’s green transition. Clothing produced by these companies is often made from synthetic fibers like polyester, which release microplastics with each wash and are difficult to recycle. Textile sorters across Europe are increasingly finding unworn garments, still with tags attached, from brands like SHEIN. These garments are destined for landfills from the moment they’re created.
The Call for Action
EuRIC Textiles has called for immediate policy intervention to protect Europe’s textile industry and its circular economy. Their manifesto, “Increasing Textiles Circularity by 2030,” advocates for extending product lifecycles, scaling up textile recycling, and pushing for binding ecodesign requirements to ensure clothing is designed for reuse and recycling. The manifesto also calls for stricter enforcement to prevent greenwashing and to create a fairer playing field for European businesses.
One of the key actions proposed is the removal of the €150 duty exemption. This outdated rule allows ultra-fast fashion companies to bypass essential checks and contribute to market distortion. To tackle this, EuRIC suggests a more comprehensive approach, including imposing handling fees on e-commerce items and waste management fees on products sold through third-party online platforms. It also advocates for ambitious consumer awareness campaigns to educate people about the environmental and social costs of ultra-fast fashion.
Europe’s Next Steps
Europe has the tools needed to combat the growing threat posed by ultra-fast fashion. From the Digital Services Act (DSA) and Ecodesign rules to customs reforms and the Waste Framework Directive, there are plenty of legal frameworks in place. The challenge lies in ensuring these regulations are enforced and adapted to meet the scale of the problem. It’s time for Europe to close the loopholes, ensure stricter oversight, and make sustainability standards non-negotiable.
