France allocates $49 million to strengthen textile recycling infrastructure
France has announced a €49 million investment to stabilize its national textile recycling system, addressing increasing concerns in the sector about the sustainability of textile waste management. The funding, scheduled for 2025, is part of the government’s effort to strengthen the country’s recycling network, which has faced mounting pressure in recent years. An additional €57 million is set aside for 2026 to further bolster the system.
The announcement follows protests by Le Relais, a prominent recycling organization in France, which has raised alarms over the inadequate financial support for recycling operations. Le Relais recently staged a protest by dumping 12 tons of clothing outside a Kiabi store in Arras, demanding improved economic conditions for the recycling sector. The protests highlighted the growing crisis within the industry, particularly concerning the fees paid by manufacturers and distributors under the “polluter pays” principle.
Currently, the sector receives €156 per ton of textile waste managed through Refashion, the organization responsible for overseeing the fees. Le Relais has called for an increase in this contribution to €304 per ton to ensure the financial sustainability of the recycling system. In response, the French government has committed to increasing this contribution to €223 per ton in 2025 and €228 per ton in 2026.
France’s textile recycling system collects about 270,000 tons of textile waste annually, with around 60% of this waste being resold as second-hand clothing. A significant portion of these textiles, about 90%, is exported to markets in Africa. However, the sector has been destabilized by a drop in international prices for used textiles, particularly in African markets. Demand for used clothing from Africa is now shifting toward cheaper garments from Asia, resulting in a decline in the resale value of second-hand clothing and the closure of many traditional clothing collection points in France.
The French government’s initiative aims to address these challenges and ensure the continued success of the country’s circular economy model. Despite the recent setbacks, France remains one of Europe’s leaders in textile recycling and is taking steps to protect this vital industry while promoting other environmental initiatives, including a law targeting ultra-fast fashion.
