Automation of sorting revolutionizes textile recycling
Textile recycling in Europe is rapidly evolving as the environmental impact of discarded clothing becomes more urgent. The fashion and clothing industries are facing increasing pressure to rethink how textiles are managed once they reach the end of their lifecycle. With new government regulations on the horizon, the entire process of textile disposal is undergoing a transformation.
From Rags to Riches: Textile Recycling Enters a New Era
Around 7.5 million tons of textiles are discarded annually in Europe, but only 2.2 million tons are collected for recycling. The rest ends up in landfills or is incinerated. However, the situation is set to change significantly in the coming years. As part of new regulations, the volume of textiles collected for recycling is expected to rise by 4.5 to 7.2 million tons by 2030. According to a report by McKinsey, “Scaling Textile Recycling in Europe – turning waste into value” (June 2022), this is a major step toward reducing textile waste.
Alexandre Butté, General Manager of ANDRITZ Laroche, explains, “The new regulations mean that by 2025, all European countries will no longer be able to dispose of clothing by landfill or burning. All of these countries will have to have collection systems in place by that time.”
Addressing the Challenges
In response to these challenges, Nouvelles Fibres Textiles was formed by two entrepreneurs from the textile industry in France, Eric Boel and Etienne Wiroth. Their goal is to industrialize the recycling and sorting of textiles in France, paving the way for a circular economy on a large scale.
Both Boel and Wiroth bring vast experience to the table. Boel is the General Director of Les Tissages de Charlieu (LTC), a company known for its “living heritage” in weaving textiles for clothing and bags. LTC has extensive experience in automating the weaving production process and using recycled textile raw materials. Wiroth, General Director of Synergies TLC, specializes in the collection and sorting of used textiles. His company is actively involved in numerous research and innovation projects aimed at optimizing textile sorting.
Nouvelles Fibres Textiles was born out of the desire to bring advanced technology to the textile sorting process, making it more efficient and economically viable. “The goal with Nouvelles Fibres Textiles is to trigger the circular economy at an industrial scale when it comes to the sorting and recycling of textiles in France,” explains Boel.
A Partnership for Success
This new approach to textile recycling would not be possible without the collaboration of four specialized companies: Nouvelles Fibres Textiles, Les Tissages de Charlieu, Pellenc ST, and ANDRITZ Laroche. The collaboration brings together each partner’s expertise in textile sorting, recycling, and production.
The process of sorting used textiles is incredibly demanding. Textiles come in a variety of compositions, colors, and sizes, making sorting a complex task. Nouvelles Fibres Textiles decided to take on this mammoth task but recognized the need for expert support. ANDRITZ, with its extensive experience in textile recycling and the construction of manufacturing lines, joined forces with Pellenc ST, a specialist in waste sorting machines. Together, these four companies are developing a state-of-the-art textile sorting plant, with 60% of its time dedicated to commercial operations and 40% set aside for research and development.
Concentrated Expertise Gives the Customer the Advantage
This truly is an equal partnership between four specialist companies. First of all, we have the expertise in collecting and manual sorting from Synergies followed by Les Tissages de Charlieu and its long experience and know-how in weaving yarns made out of recycled fibers. Then ANDRITZ comes in with its deep knowledge of providing technology and complete lines for textile recycling and production. The loop is then completed by Pellenc ST and its dedicated high-tech machines purpose-built for the sorting of textiles.
Alexandre Butté, General Manager of ANDRITZ Laroche
With the combined efforts of all four partners, textile recycling is entering a new era of efficiency and sustainability, bringing Europe closer to meeting its ambitious environmental goals. The automation of textile sorting is not only improving the recycling process but also paving the way for a future where textiles are reused and recycled on a massive scale, contributing to a more sustainable fashion industry.
